Estéron - Verdon: Glagla Adventure

DAY 1: Departure for the cold and calm

Departure from Gilette, less than an hour from Nice. Tonight, we're staying in Saint-André-les-Alpes, in the Verdon. Between the two, we have 90 km to cover, with the whole day ahead of us to enjoy. This time, we're riding with Scapada, our all-terrain vehicle built for these remote back roads. The Estéron, already quiet in normal times, is even quieter in winter. The Verdon? Emptied of tourists by the cold. For us, it's perfect.

We're geared up to face the icy weekend: winter shoes, mitten-like gloves, a down jacket, a Gore-Tex jacket, and even hand warmers (wisely tucked away in our saddlebags). Neck warmers transformed into balaclavas: ready to ride without shivering.

Roads are rare around here, we follow the ribbon of asphalt that gently descends into the valley, running alongside the Estéron. Below, the river sings, and we glimpse gravel tracks that make us dream of future escapades. First stop in Roquesteron, undoubtedly the most "lively" village of the day. Two coffees at the PMU to watch the ballet of the local elders. Impromptu breakfast with two Näak waffles and a few Haribos lying around.

The magic of small roads

Then the road narrows, the cars become rarer. The further we go, the deeper we sink into silence. We pedal gently, as if holding back the day. Between two "wow, did you see that?", we look up, marvel, and set off again. No one is waiting for us tonight, just a reserved table at a restaurant somewhere. So, no reason to rush.

The Enchanted Parenthesis

At a bend in the road, we decide to climb up to the village of Le Mas. It's the Christmas market: crepes on every street corner, a festive atmosphere. We park our bikes on a low wall, share a sandwich from our saddlebags, and with the few coins we have left, we treat ourselves to a Nutella crepe. Perfect with a hot coffee to get us going again.

Next stop: the Col de Pinpinier. The climb is gentle, passing through a sleepy village, water bottles filled at a fountain. Arriving at the summit, in the shade of the forest, we put on the full kit (down jacket, gloves, vest) before plunging into the descent. Saint-Auban spreads out beneath our wheels: green, vast, deserted. Matt has a blast riding through the fields on his 38-inch tires, while my 28-inch Black Birds stay firmly on the asphalt.

A foggy stretch creates a mysterious, slightly oppressive atmosphere with a few hunters in the distance. Then, back into the sun. We reach Demandolx, a small village where we had already stopped during a bikepacking getaway. But now, everything is closed. Oh well, we continue.

On the heights of Lake Verdon, the landscape becomes spectacular: cliffs, surprising colors in winter. We're almost at the end of the route. 15 km from Saint-André-les-Alpes, Matt sinks into the mud near a beach, grumbles a little, but it makes for a very beautiful photo :)

We finally arrive at our destination: a hot shower at the Hôtel Bel Air and a generous dinner at La Table de Marie. A simple, friendly, and efficient place that we recommend.

DAY 2: Frosty awakening

A freezing morning. Everything outside is frozen. First instinct: snooze. But after 30 minutes, we have to get to work. We put on all our layers, head to an open cafe and a bakery to stock up on pizza and sandwiches in our saddlebags.

The day begins on the edge of the lake, in a setting frozen by the cold. On a bridge, we stop to capture the mystical mist rising. Then, we hit the road again, heading for the "Barremian stratotype" (yes, we looked it up: geological formations stacked in layers). It's always good to learn a fun fact while cycling!

The crossing

After the hamlet of Angles, we treat ourselves to a short, rather rolling gravel section. Don't panic, if my tires can pass, anyone can. The horses and donkeys watch us pass, curious. A quick pizza break in the sun, before diving back down towards the Angles torrent.

The climb to the Col de Trébuchet takes up a good part of the morning. We flirt with the sun and the frozen areas. Once at the top, the descent lulls us, the cold biting our cheeks. The villages follow one after the other: Vergons, Val de Chalvagne, La Rochette, Saint-Pierre, Ascros...

And then, surprise: Will's food truck. A Nutella waffle in his garden, a motorcycle atmosphere, and a friendly atmosphere. Will offers to fire up the fryer for burgers, but we decline (this time). We note the address for a future trip with friends.

The magic of forgotten roads

185 kilometers in two days, on deserted roads where we barely passed 10 cars. The feeling of being alone in the world, like marmots who had forgotten to hibernate. Two days of freedom, riding just for the pleasure of it, and remembering why we love it. We'll be back, that's for sure. Maybe in a t-shirt this summer, but this winter adventure will remain etched in our memory. As it turns out, all you need is a bike, some warm clothes, and the desire to go.