The Pilgrimage

Third edition

The Pilgrimage has become a tradition for us, our annual event. The first edition was also the first year of Massacan. You could say we grew up together. And the people behind this event, which is close to our hearts, are now friends: Simon, Cyril, Yorit, Nils, Anne.

Let's be honest: the images are incredible, we smile in the photos... but it's mostly because we're so happy to see the media team hidden behind a rock or a tree waiting for us. But the Pilgrimage is tough. Really "challenging" as they say. Count on at least 3,500 m of elevation gain per day, for 4 days. Each route is fully exploited. And after three editions, they still manage to take us higher and higher, to perched fortresses, vestiges of past wars. We're never really alone, and we think that at the time, building these fortresses up there must have been a real pain.

We arrive the day before departure at Puy-Saint-Vincent, base camp. Three Massacans are already there: Nicolas and Jorit, two customers we'd never met before, and Michael, a regular at the Pilgrimage since the first edition, like us. Chris isn't far away either. A small army of Paulas, that's nice. After this adventure, they're no longer customers but traveling buddies.

Thursday evening, we meet familiar faces, other regulars who can't live without it anymore. Dinner, a veritable feast prepared by Anne and her team, brings everyone together around large tables. We naturally meet up with Massacan, but we also mingle. Briefing from Simon and Cyril. Then, no choice: wake up at 6 a.m. the next day, departure at 7 a.m.

Day 1 : already strong

101 km and 3,520 m of elevation gain. Objective: the Fort de la Croix de Bretagne, checkpoint and XXL refreshment stop. I was secretly hoping for a fondue prepared by Anne over a wood fire... and yes, impossible to resist! That's also the Pilgrimage: each checkpoint is epic, with its altitude, its history, and its surprises. But before that, you have to cross the Col de la Pousterle. Its name comes from the French word "poustrelle," the "little door," because during the time of the plague the valley roads were closed. This discreet passage served as a backdoor, sometimes used by Saint Roch himself (the pilgrim who inspired the Pilgrimage). At the summit, a panoramic view of the Fournel Valley. After a technical climb, you can rest for a moment at the Fort before heading downhill. And there, we were very happy to have Pianella to overtake the gravel bikes. Because yes, a real question: which bike to bring to the Pilgrimage? The trails are technical, increasingly rough, with few roads. If you want to race: gravel. Otherwise, hardtail or full-suspension. But there's no such thing as a perfect bike!

We often rode with Nicolas, owner of one of the very first Paulas. He spent the four days with us: good humor and cheap jokes on the agenda.

Day 2: Waking up more difficult

Objective: Galibier and the Clarée Valley via the old Tour de France route (at the time with a fixed gear). A Pilgrimage classic: 136 km and 3,140 m of elevation gain. The first year, rain and fog, we didn't even see the summit. The second year, snow and ice, many gave up. I remember that we found refuge in a half-closed mountain restaurant, without running water, just a blueberry tart to warm us up... The first year, we had all the blankets on our shoulders... that's the atmosphere!

This time, sunshine and a clear summit. It was still 0°C at the pass, but miraculously: first descent without freezing to death. Then we headed to the Col des Rochilles: a hike/portage section on the GR57 before the Drayères refuge, checkpoint and refreshment stop. A tricky moment, but we had a laugh among the rocks. Cyril followed us on his electric mountain bike to take some epic and dangerous photos...

Finally, we see the refuge. Ritual: we swap our shoes for Crocs, soup, sausage, cakes, hot coffee. We get our brevet card stamped by the fire before setting off again for a long descent towards the Clarée valley. After a few rocks, we head out onto the tarmac and the tracks along the river. Easy, fun, we cross woods and fords. A quick stop at Thomas's, a friend from Nice who lives in Val-des-Prés, then the last climb of the day. We meet some Pilgrims on the road, we race each other, we all finish together, or almost. Finally, a stage under the sun, but we're done.

Day 3 & 4 : two days, 232 km and 7350 m of elevation gain

A journey through the former military zones between France and Italy. Departure from Briançon via a bakery, the last real stop before Sestriere. First pass: Gondrand at 2,400 m, remnants of the border: forts, bunkers, watchtowers. We cross into Italy via the quiet valleys of Piedmont. The atmosphere is different, the hikers are warmer, and the mountains are alive. We wind our way along the trails before plunging into Sestriere. Our legs are aching, except for Matt, who takes off. Nico and I survive behind us. But pizza awaits us. In Sestriere, there are lots of other Pilgrims and cyclists from the Torino-Nice group. We share a pizza, some ultra-sweet Esta Thés, and then head for the Assietta Pass.

We cut across the summit to reach Oulx before nightfall. For the first time, I didn't finish the stage. A little sad, but I'd given it my all and wanted to enjoy what came next. Descent along abandoned ski slopes, fog, then sun. Finally, everyone in Oulx, same generous pizzeria. Then mechanical checks, because tomorrow looks wet...

And indeed, we woke up in the rain the next day. Message from Simon: first pass closed, too dangerous. We'll return to France via the Col de l'Échelle by road, then Granon option for those who are motivated. But setting off in the rain, hood over the helmet, it's hard to think. At the summit, fog. We take shelter in a tunnel to put on everything we have: down jacket, second pair of gloves. Furtive encounter with a fox (Scapada perhaps?), magical moment. Then Matt, Jorit, and Duncan appear to take some photos. The descent is long, freezing, fingers numb. No question of adding the Granon, we head towards Briançon soaked. Small vote: no stopping or we won't leave. We complete the loop by road, last climb to Puy-Saint-Vincent. Soaked, rinsed, hungry, we arrive at 1:30 p.m. after 6 hours of rain. Scalding shower, then XXL snack before the aperitif. Cheese, cold cuts, bread, biscuits. Michael and Timothé finally arrive, the first to have completed the entire course. Michael is riding a Paula for the first time: they're exhausted but happy, photo to prove it.

It's easy to forget: the Pilgrimage is tough. The route is demanding, with no days below 3,500 m of elevation gain, and very little road. We did the first two editions on Paula, but this time Pianella was the right choice for getting through everything, grinding hard, and descending flat out.

Then this edition was special: we met Nico and Jorit, who have become adventure buddies, met Michael again since the first edition, and shared a second adventure with Chris.

It was really cool.

Photo credits: Yorit Kluitman, Cyril Chermin, Nicolas Hoffschir, Lucie Denis