The Little Pilgrimage

The Ecrins, Bikes, and Friends

It’s almost been 4 years since we discovered Puy-Saint-Vincent and its playground: the Ecrins National Park, the old Galibier road, the Clarée valley, Montgenèvre… in short, plenty to enjoy on a bike! These are trails we’ve ridden on every Pilgrimage, but this time we asked Simon (one of the founders) to create a special three-day program just for us, so we could enjoy it… and introduce our friends to this magical place.

On Sunday, we arrive around noon at Hotel Saint Roch, our base camp for the trip. We're the only guests, besides another cycling group; the resort is quiet. We grab a bite and head straight out for a ride. Simon accompanies us, and of course, nothing goes as planned.

The initial 42-kilometer route will be slightly reduced, the view from the summit of La Pousterle will have to wait for another day, and one of us will have to return earlier than expected. In short, a fairly normal ride! Of course, the entire descent is done at full speed with laughter, we ride along the river on a mountain bike singletrack, then we climb back up the road in full sun to rejoin the main track. At this point, Antoine starts seeing double and is forced to turn back, a victim of sunstroke. The rest of the team continues on the right path with a few detours to explore mountain bike trails and take on some steep climbing challenges. Then, once on the plateau, we descend into the forest, first flat tire! We set off again, but we've been delayed quite a bit along the way, so we decide to head back to the hotel and check on Antoine.

Max and Robin test the pool temperature—a bit cold for my taste. Then we head for aperitifs on the terrace, with a view of the resort. We've already disconnected as if 24 hours had passed. At dinner, we're served like kings, and even if Anne isn't the chef tonight, she's not far. We eat, we drink, we laugh… then some have a livelier evening than others.

Monday, this is the real day! On the menu: 3110m of elevation gain, 85 kilometers, and a refreshment stop at Lac de l'Orceyrette at almost 2000m… But before getting up there, the whole troop needs to wake up, recover from the night, have breakfast, and get ready. We take off around 8:30-9:00 for a big day. I know the first part well, but in the opposite direction; we start by descending the road, then we have to tackle a first climb on the track, the Montbrison massif, the old Briançon road, we enter the forest, surrounded by peaks and rocks, it smells like climbing spots.

But we stay on the track until Simon’s route takes us down a narrow mountain bike path, promising some "hike a bike" sections. Otherwise, it wouldn't be a proper Pilgrimage.

We finally arrive at the Briançon bakery around noon… or maybe 1 PM, I'm not exactly sure. Simon and Anne promised us a secret refreshment stop, so there's no question of raiding the tempting sandwich display. We settle for a soda, a coffee, and a few slices of pizza eaten on the sidewalk before tackling the second climb; 1,000 meters of elevation gain, just to further whet our appetites.

The group stretches out little by little, each finding their rhythm. I tend to stay at the back with Nico and Antoine. Then, around a bend, we find Matt and Gaël waiting for us just before the lake. And there, as often in the mountains, everything changes suddenly. We forget the heavy legs, the sweat, and the steep sections. The trail becomes smoother, slightly downhill, and the scenery takes over.

We ride along Lac de l’Orceyrette, perched at an altitude of 1,927 meters. The surrounding peaks are still dotted with snow. It's so beautiful.

In the distance, we spot a red parasol. A table is set with a tablecloth. And on the other side of the river, our friends are already settled. We cross, getting our feet a little wet, to join the rest of the group.

And then… Simon and Anne had prepared a real feast for us.

Homemade hot dogs, piccalilli sauce, savory tarts, sausage, salad garnished with edible flowers—I even think there were nasturtiums. We pass around the dishes, pile our bread high with everything we can get our hands on, and devour it all.

Then comes the moment when no one moves anymore. Some lie down in the grass, others contemplate the landscape. Honestly, it's hard to imagine a better place for a lunch break. We could almost decide to end the day here and freeze the moment.

Max pretends to be Superman with a blanket as a cape. The Moka pot starts to steam. Anne serves coffee while the last cakes go around.

Really, it could all end there.

But a refuge awaits us up there, and we'll have to go get it.

We set off again, full-bellied. It's hot. The descent doesn't last long, and here we are back in a succession of climbs and descents, heading towards L'Argentière-la-Bessée, where the day's final ascent begins.

A quick assessment at this point: about 75 kilometers on the clock, already 2,300 meters of positive elevation gain in our legs… and there are still 800 meters to climb to the refuge.

Viewed like that, it might seem a bit ambitious.

But knowing that a fondue awaits us at the top, everyone quickly finds their motivation.

The climb begins on a steep little road before skirting the cliffs and gradually delving into the mountains. The track takes over. We cross the Fournel several times on small wooden bridges and, turn after turn, we gain altitude.

Head down, I notice the clouds beginning to darken. I tell myself it's best to pick up the pace a bit if we want to reach the famous sheepfold before the storm.

We finally arrive up there with Matt. Antoine isn't far ahead, and Nico is close behind. As usual, Gaël, Robin, and Max are already settled… and have even started the aperitif.

The bikes are quickly put away. A few drops tickle us, but nothing serious. We discover the dormitory, enjoy a cool shower, then head back down to join the others to celebrate this big day.

Finally, it's not even 7 PM. Everyone arrived before the weather really turned.

The wood-burning stove crackles gently. We sink into the sofas, clink glasses, and recount the day. Between two showers, we step out to admire a magnificent rainbow before heading back in for dinner.

And again, Anne went all out.

Two enormous cheese fondue pots arrive in the middle of the table. We serve ourselves generously, then a little more, then a little more. After a day like that, no one is really counting.

These moments are as much a part of the journey as the kilometers ridden. Getting together around a good meal, in a refuge lost in the middle of the mountains, far from everything, after spending the day doing what we love most: riding.

The evening extends quietly on the sofas. Between two showers, we even go out to roast some marshmallows outside. Then everyone eventually heads to bed.

In the morning, some will have a bit of trouble opening their eyes and finding motivation. It must be said that the hotel is only 3 kilometers away. But Simon promises us an exceptional view.

So after breakfast, we all get back on our bikes and follow him.

Towards the big rock overlooking the refuge.

And honestly?

It was well worth the effort.

It was good.

Three days that passed far too quickly.

And as we descended, all we wanted was to stay up there a little longer.

Thank you Simon and Anne.