Estéron - Verdon: Glagla Adventure

DAY 1 : Departure for the cold and calm

Departure from Gilette, less than an hour from Nice. Tonight, we sleep in Saint-André-les-Alpes, in the Verdon. Between the two, 90 km to cover with the whole day ahead of us to enjoy. This time, we ride with Scapada, our allroad bike made for these small, lost roads. The Estéron, already quiet in normal times, is even quieter in winter. The Verdon ? Emptied of tourists by the cold. For us, it's perfect.

We equipped ourselves to face the icy weekend : winter shoes, gloves lined with mittens, down jacket, Gore-Tex jacket, and even hand warmers (wisely left in the saddlebags). Neck warmer transformed into a balaclava : ready to ride without shivering.

Roads are rare around here, we follow the asphalt ribbon that gently descends into the valley, along the Estéron. Below, the river sings, and we see gravel tracks that make us dream of future escapades. First stop in Roquesteron, probably the most "lively" village of the day. Two coffees at the PMU to watch the ballet of the local elders. Improvised breakfast with two Näak waffles and a few Haribo lying around.

The magic of small roads

Then, the road narrows, the cars become rarer. The further we go, the more we sink into silence. We pedal gently, as if to hold back the day. Between two "wow, did you see that ?", we look up, we marvel, and we set off again. No one is waiting for us tonight, just a reserved table in a restaurant somewhere. So, no reason to hurry.

The enchanted parenthesis

At the bend in the road, we decide to climb up to the village of Le Mas. It's the Christmas market : crepes on every street corner, festive atmosphere. We put the bikes on a low wall, share a sandwich from the saddlebags, and with the few coins we have left, we treat ourselves to a Nutella crepe. Perfect with a hot coffee to get going again.

Next stop : the Pinpinier pass. The climb is gentle, we pass through a sleepy village, water bottles filled at a fountain. Arriving at the top, in the shade of the forest, we put on the whole thing (down jacket, gloves, vest) before diving into the descent. Saint-Auban spreads out under our wheels : green, vast, deserted. Matt has a blast riding across the fields with his 38 tires, while my 28 Black Birds stay firmly on the tarmac.

A foggy stretch gives a mysterious atmosphere, a little heavy with a few hunters in the distance. Then, back to the sun. We reach Demandolx, a small village where we had already stopped during a bikepacking getaway. But there, everything is closed. Too bad, we continue.

On the heights of the Verdon lake, the landscape becomes spectacular : cliffs, surprising colors in winter. We are almost at the end of the route. 15 km from Saint-André-les-Alpes, Matt sinks into the mud near a beach, grumbles a little, but it gives a very beautiful photo :)

We finally arrive at our destination : hot shower at the Hôtel Bel Air and generous dinner at La Table de Marie. A simple, friendly, efficient address that we recommend.

DAY 2 : Frosty awakening

Cold wake-up call. Everything is frozen outside. First reflex : snooze. But after 30 minutes, we have to get to work. We put on all our layers, head to an open café and a bakery to stock up on pizza and sandwiches in our saddlebags.

The day starts on the edge of the lake, in a setting frozen by the cold. On a bridge, we stop to capture the mystical mist that rises. Then, we get back on the road, heading for the "Barremian stratotype" (yes, we looked up what it was : geological formations superimposed in layers). It's always good to get a fun fact out while pedaling !

The crossing

After the hamlet of Angles, we treat ourselves to a short, rather rolling gravel section. Don't panic, if my tires pass, everyone can. The horses and donkeys watch us pass, curious. A short pizza break in the sun, before diving back down towards the Angles torrent.

The climb up to the Col de Trébuchet takes up a good part of the morning. We flirt with the sun and the frozen areas. Once at the top, the descent rocks us, the cold biting our cheeks. The villages follow one after the other : Vergons, Val de Chalvagne, La Rochette, Saint-Pierre, Ascros...

And there, surprise : Will's food truck. A Nutella waffle in his garden, motorcycle atmosphere and conviviality. Will offers to turn on the fryer again for burgers, but we decline (this time). We note the address for a next trip with friends.

The magic of forgotten roads

185 kilometers in two days, on deserted roads where we barely crossed 10 cars. The feeling of being alone in the world, like marmots who have forgotten to hibernate. Two days of freedom, riding just for fun, and remembering why we love it. We will come back, that's for sure. Maybe in a t-shirt this summer, but this winter adventure will remain engraved. As you can see, all you need is a bike, some warm clothes, and the desire to go.